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Discussion Starter #21
It is my understanding that boats break in better with a heavy passenger and a full cooler. If you need help with those extra requirements I am available :)
That's actually true. Proper break in requires heat and a heavy load with no trim for the first couple of hours will build heat.
 

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Me too! Did Gary play with the setup on this thing or do we have to once you get it broken in?

Oh yeah, I was mostly kidding about going for a ride.........mostly.
 

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Dont know. Gary your setting this up Im guessing and what prop are you thinking? Either way im sure I will be buying a few props to try different things out to see how close to 80 I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I think we should get some time on the motor and the seat and then we can do some set up tuning and prop testing. The current air quality is poor for hot rodding so when we get some cooler air we will find out what this beast is going to do. Corporations internationally have settled on adoption of International Standards Organization (ISO) engine test standards to rate engine power. Horsepower values are obtained from a dynamometer at sea level, 30% relative humidity, at 77 degrees f. As humidity and air temp rise HP drops as much as 14% only compounded by high pitch props and heavy fishing loads. Ever noticed how much better the runs when it's cold?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Dont know. Gary your setting this up Im guessing and what prop are you thinking? Either way im sure I will be buying a few props to try different things out to see how close to 80 I can get.[/QUOTI think that we should establish a baseline starting point be for we change anything, after that we should change 1 thing at a time.
 

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I run about 3 or 4 mph slower in the summer I think. If you get to prop testing I have some for you to try. I have a 27 tempest plus, a 27 fury, a 28 bravo 1 with vent holes, a 28 pro max and if you have a small shaft you can run Yamaha props as well. I have a 25 t1 Yamaha. And Gary if you would like to try it I have a 30 pitch spinelli 3 blade chopper-small shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The gear case has a low water pick up but may be the limiting factor to get to your goal.Standard gear cases don't like to run at high transom heights.
 

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You can plug the top holes on the sides of the motor to gain an inch of height.

My boat tried a standard gearcase for a while, at 80 mph the motor was turned slightly to the right to account for prop steer, the angle on the skeg caused cavitation at that speed and I would have prop blowout. Scary, nearly left the boat a couple times. Was fine up to 75 or so.
 

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If you need to play with higher engine height we can slap my sportmaster on there and run it as high as your Jack plate will go. You can't keep it though, it belongs to baby. (baby is my boats name)

If we need smaller props my buddy has 4 or 5 in the 25-26 range.

I would recommend we take every prop we can scrounge up and run all of them.
 

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Does this have the normal lower unit or the torquemaster?
My friend Jack just got a pro xs and it came with a standard small shaft lower unit. That lower unit lets you run Yamaha props to add to your options. The torquemaster and sportmaster have a "fatshaft" that won't accept the Yamaha props.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
2012-12-26_15-48-08_276.jpg 108.JPG It has a standard case. I've got a few props but most are 30pitch plus so not really a good choice for this application. I would like to set up a z8 w/ a sporty gear case to see what we could do.

A couple more pics of the Z8 . 2014 nitro 046.JPG 2014 nitro 047.JPG 2014 nitro 048.JPG
 

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You can throw mine on to do some testing. Mine is stock except for I thinned the front a little and rounded the left side of the skeg.
 

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Hey fearandloathing, I would like to try a 30 lightning and a 30 cleaver sometime. Let me know if you have either of those or something like it that I could try.
 
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