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01-29-2013, 02:55 PM #1
Keeping Shad Alive....
I fish with live bait aka shad 90% of the time. One of the of the biggest complaints I hear besides not being able to catch them is I can't keep them alive. Well here are a few things you can do to help solve the second problem.
First you need a tank with round corners and a good filteration system. The reason you need round corners is simple shad are born looking for a place to die and 90 degree corners offer that chance. Shad willcrowd into the corners and deplete the oxygen and literally bash their brains in running into a corner so round tanks solve this. Shad are nasty creatures and shed scales and crap. Need a good filteration system to catch these scales.
Fill your tank with non cholorinated water. I use either well water or Lake water. If you use tap water make sure you get some of that stuff to de-chloriante the water. You can get it at almost any pet store that has fish. Follow the instructions. Also do this about 30 minutes before you add your bait to the tank. Next add your salt. I use the water softner salt non idozided. Add one cup per 10 gallons. This helps prevent scale loss. If you see you baits developing red nose add more salt. I also use Shad keep. This has a bunch of electrolytes and other stuff that keeps your baits lively. Add one cup per twenty gallons. Once you have your water conditioned you are ready to add bait...
Your tank can only hold so many shad. A good rule of thumb if your fishing that day is 5 (4"-5") baits per gallon of water. I have a 50 gallon tank so that means I can start the day with 200 baits max. Usually I try to have to have 100-125 baits. That seems to be enough for most days and if I run out I am usually tired and ready to go in.lol During the summer cut that number in half.
Once the water warms it is a good Idea to change out your water. I have a pump that I use and I will pump out roughly 1/3 to half of the water and replace with fresh water and add more salt and shad keeper. Also during the summer you can add bags of ice to keep your water temperature cool. Again remember to add you water conditioner.
CLEAN YOUR FILTER EVERY COUPLE OF HOURS!!!!!
Couple of other things to keep in mind...
1) Throw out any unhealthy baits!!! They wil pollute your tank and I swear influnce the other healthy bastards to want to commit suicide.
2) Handle the baits as little as possible and only try to catch as many in the net as you need.
3) If your tank starts to foam add some foam off or you can use coffee creamer.
4) Sunscreen is the devil as well as any other oil (ask Riley!!!) If you apply sunscreen wash your hands throughly.
Thats all I got now. If I think of something else I will add. If anybody has anything else or other little tips please share.
Last edited by BrandonA; 01-29-2013 at 03:58 PM.
01-29-2013, 03:26 PM #2
When it's really hot throw some lake water ice blocks or frozen water bottles in. Heat is shad enemy #1..
01-29-2013, 03:39 PM #3
Great stuff Brandon and very nice of you to post it up.It is imperative to remain confident in your abilities when the bullets are flying.
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01-29-2013, 03:43 PM #4
Something else. When catching shad have a catch bucket to put your shad into first. This will allow them to perge themselves keeping your bait tank water cleaner. I use a Five gallon bucket but Jackie uses something like a 10-15 gallon bucket. I like his but just don't have room.
01-29-2013, 05:27 PM #5
01-29-2013, 06:08 PM #6
By perging, I assume you mean crap? Which, of course, will dirty the water in the bucket. So, you wouldn't want to dump the bucket water, and shad, into your holding tank.
You mentioned it's best to minimally net/handle the shad. So, how do you recommend transferring shad from the bucket to the holding tank? Strain the water off?'10 RIDE 135
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01-29-2013, 06:21 PM #7
Thanks for the tips! I have always had a difficult time keeping them alive past an hour or two.
01-29-2013, 06:56 PM #8
Carl yes let them shit in the bucket then net them and put them in the tank. Be easy on them and always wet the net or your hands before handling them.
01-29-2013, 07:35 PM #9
Thanks, bud.'10 RIDE 135
200 HPDI (Humanly Powered Direct Injection)
01-29-2013, 07:43 PM #10
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